Japanese

Ramen noodles with baked baking soda

Ramen noodles get their bounce and yellow tint from an alkaline salt (kansui). The Momofuku trick: bake ordinary baking soda for an hour and it turns into a much stronger alkali (sodium carbonate). Dissolve it in the water, make a stiff dough, rest it, and roll it through a pasta machine. Use these for the ramen or the ginger scallion noodles.

~600 g fresh noodles (4–5 portions)~3 h (mostly resting) + 1 h to bake the soda, once
Ramen noodles with baked baking soda

Mise en place — set out in the order it goes in

  1. Baked baking soda
    Baked baking sodafrom the jar, 12 gStep 2
  2. Water
    Waterwarm + coldStep 2
  3. Flours
    Floursbread + all-purposeStep 3
  4. Dusting starch
    Dusting starchStep 5

Prep order — what happens when, and what overlaps

h:mm
0:000:301:001:302:002:303:00
Bake the baking soda (once) 1 h
1 h
Alkaline water 3 min
Mix + knead 7 min
Rest 20 min
20 min
Knead again 5 min
Rest (fridge) 1 h
1 h
Sheet + cut 20 min
20 min
Boil 2 min
Hands-offBowl / counterBoardPan / stove

The baked soda keeps for months in its jar — after the first batch, skip the first bar.

Step by step

  1. Spread the baking soda thinly on a foil-lined tray, then bake 1 hour at 120 °C.
    Spread the baking soda thinly on a foil-lined tray, then bake 1 hour at 120 °C.

    1Bake the baking soda

    1 h (once)

    For this step

    • Baking soda60 g (about 4 tbsp) — enough for 3 batches
    • Line a tray with foil and spread the baking soda out in a thin, even layer.
    • Bake at 120 °C (250 °F) for 1 hour. It loses about a third of its weight as it turns into sodium carbonate.
    • Let it cool, tip it into a glass jar, close it and label it. It’s a much stronger alkali than baking soda now — handle it with gloves, keep it away from eyes and don’t taste it.
    Bake the baking soda
    Should look like this
  2. Gloves on: stir the baked soda into the warm water until it fully dissolves.
    Gloves on: stir the baked soda into the warm water until it fully dissolves.

    2Make the alkaline water

    ~3 min
    • Wearing gloves, stir until fully dissolved:
      • baked baking soda 12 g (4 tsp)
      • warm water 100 ml
    • Then add:
      • cold water 100 ml
    Make the alkaline water
    Should look like this
  3. Pour in the alkaline water while stirring with chopsticks, then work it with your hands.
    Pour in the alkaline water while stirring with chopsticks, then work it with your hands.

    3Mix the dough

    ~2 min
    • Put in a large bowl:
      • bread flour 200 g
      • all-purpose flour 200 g
    • Pour in the alkaline water while stirring with chopsticks, then work it together with your hands.
    • It will look too dry and crumbly — that’s right; it comes together while kneading and resting.
    Mix the dough
    Should look like this
  4. Knead hard with the heel of your hand for 5 minutes — it's a stiff dough.
    Knead hard with the heel of your hand for 5 minutes — it's a stiff dough.

    4Knead, rest, knead

    ~1 h 30 min
    • Knead for 5 minutes, pressing hard with the heel of your hand — the dough is stiff.
    • Wrap it and rest 20 minutes.
    • Knead another 5 minutes until smooth, wrap again and rest 1 hour (fridge is fine).
    Knead, rest, knead
    Should look like this
  5. Run each piece through the widest setting, fold it, and repeat 3–4 times.
    Run each piece through the widest setting, fold it, and repeat 3–4 times.
    Then step down to the third-thickest setting, dusting with starch.
    Then step down to the third-thickest setting, dusting with starch.

    5Sheet it

    ~10 min

    For this step

    • Cornstarch or potato starch2–3 tbsp
    • Cut the dough into 4 pieces and flatten each one with your palm.
    • Run each through the pasta machine on the widest setting, fold in half and run it again — 3–4 times until it’s smooth.
    • Then step down to the third-thickest setting (about 1.5 mm), dusting with starch so it doesn’t stick.
    Sheet it
    Should look like this
  6. Run the sheets through the thin cutter, pulling the noodles out from underneath.
    Run the sheets through the thin cutter, pulling the noodles out from underneath.
    Toss with starch and shape into loose nests of about 130 g.
    Toss with starch and shape into loose nests of about 130 g.

    6Cut and portion

    ~10 min
    • Run the sheets through the thin cutter, pulling the noodles out from underneath rather than pushing them.
    • Toss with a little starch and shape into loose nests of about 130 g.
    • Cook now, keep in a bag in the fridge 2–3 days, or freeze the nests and cook them from frozen.
    Cut and portion
    Should look like this
  7. Boil 1½–2 minutes, then lift out and shake off the water well.
    Boil 1½–2 minutes, then lift out and shake off the water well.

    7Cook

    high2 min
    • Boil in plenty of unsalted water for 1½–2 minutes — taste one: springy and cooked through.
    • Lift out with a strainer, shake off the water well, and straight into the bowl.
    Cook
    Should look like this

Based on: Brains for brunch — homemade ramen (Lucky Peach noodles) · Biting at the Bits — baked baking soda