Cheese

Mac and cheese

A white roux and warm milk make the body of the sauce. The colour comes after the heat is off: orange cheddar, sweet paprika and a little Dijon. Stop the roux while it is still pale blond. A browned roux, white cheddar, or a lot of extra milk turns this tan or cream-coloured instead of yellow-orange. Same cheddar as the grilled cheese.

2 generous bowls~25 min
Mac and cheese

Mise en place — set out in the order it goes in

  1. Cheddar
    Cheddarcoarsely gratedStep 5
  2. Milk
    MilkwarmedStep 4
  3. Butter and flour
    Butter and flourfor the rouxStep 3
  4. Paprika and Dijon
    Paprika and Dijonthe colour and the brightnessStep 5
  5. Pasta
    Pastadrained, just shy of doneStep 6

Prep order — what happens when, and what overlaps

minutes
0510152025
Warm the milk 3 min
3 min
Grate the cheddar 4 min
4 min
Boil the pasta water 6 min
6 min
Cook the elbows 8 min
8 min
Pale roux 3 min
3 min
Whisk in the milk 5 min
5 min
Cheese, paprika, Dijon — heat off 2 min
2 min
Fold in the pasta 2 min
2 min
Hands-offBoardPan / stove

Start the roux when the pasta has a few minutes left, so the sauce and the elbows finish together.

Step by step

  1. Coarsely grate the orange cheddar.
    Coarsely grate the orange cheddar.

    1Grate, and warm the milk

    4 min

    For this step

    • Orange cheddar220 g
    • Whole milk400 ml
    • Coarsely grate the orange cheddar.
    • Warm the milk in a separate pan or the microwave until it is hot to the touch, not boiling.
    Grate, and warm the milk
    Should look like this
  2. Salt the boiling water and cook the elbows until just shy of done.
    Salt the boiling water and cook the elbows until just shy of done.

    2Boil the elbows

    highper packet

    For this step

    • Elbow macaroni200 g
    • Salt, for the pasta water1 tbsp
    • Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil, salt it, and cook the elbows until they are just shy of done — they finish in the sauce.
    • Drain, and keep a splash of the pasta water.
    Boil the elbows
    Should look like this
  3. Whisk the flour into the butter and cook 1–2 minutes, pale blond, no browning.
    Whisk the flour into the butter and cook 1–2 minutes, pale blond, no browning.

    3Pale roux

    medium2 min

    For this step

    • Butter30 g
    • Plain flour20 g
    • Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat.
    • Whisk in the flour and cook 1–2 minutes, until it smells like shortbread and stays pale blond.
    • If it starts to tan, take it off. A brown roux makes a tan sauce.
    Pale roux
    Should look like this
  4. Whisk the warm milk in a splash at a time.
    Whisk the warm milk in a splash at a time.

    4Milk in

    medium4 min
    • Whisk the warm milk in a splash at a time, smoothing out each splash before the next.
    • Simmer 3–4 minutes, whisking, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon.
    • It is still pale here. The orange comes in the next step.
    Milk in
    Should look like this
  5. Off the heat: cheddar by the handful, then paprika and Dijon, until it is yellow-orange.
    Off the heat: cheddar by the handful, then paprika and Dijon, until it is yellow-orange.

    5Cheddar, paprika, Dijon

    heat off2 min

    For this step

    • Orange cheddar220 g
    • Sweet paprika1 tsp
    • Dijon mustard½ tsp
    • Black peppera pinch
    • Salt, to finish¼ tsp
    • Take the pan off the heat.
    • Stir the cheddar in by the handful until it melts glossy.
    • Stir in the sweet paprika, the Dijon and the pepper, then the finishing salt.
    • The sauce should be yellow-orange. If it is still cream-coloured, add another ½ tsp paprika. Do not boil it again — boiled cheddar turns grainy and oily.
    Cheddar, paprika, Dijon
    Should look like this
  6. Fold the drained elbows through the sauce.
    Fold the drained elbows through the sauce.

    6Fold in the pasta

    1 min

    For this step

    • Elbow macaroni200 g
    • Tip the drained elbows into the sauce and fold until every piece is coated.
    • If it tightens, loosen it with a splash of the pasta water, not a ladle — a lot of water washes the colour out.
    • Serve at once. This is a stovetop sauce, not a bake.
    Fold in the pasta
    Should look like this