Japanese

Onigiri: the shape, the fillings, the grill

Japanese rice balls. The rice is plain short-grain rice, seasoned only by the salt on your hands — not sushi rice, which is vinegared and too soft and sharp for this. Shape them by hand (left hand underneath, right hand the roof) or with a mold; fill them with the classics or something louder; hide a whole marinated egg in a bakudan (“bomb”); or grill them into yaki onigiri.

9 onigiri by hand (13 with a mold), or 4 bakudan + 3 onigiri~1½ h (+ a few h for the bakudan eggs)
Onigiri: the shape, the fillings, the grill

Mise en place — set out in the order it goes in

  1. Rice
    Ricefreshly cooked, warmStep 5
  2. Hand station
    Hand stationbowl of water · kosher saltStep 5
  3. Classic fillings
    Classic fillings
    • salmon
    • okaka
    • tuna-mayo
    • umeboshi
    Step 6
  4. Loud fillings
    Loud fillings
    • spicy tuna-mayo
    • karaage
    • kimchi + cheese
    Step 6
  5. Marinated eggs
    Marinated eggspeeled, in the soy marinadeStep 11
  6. Nori + furikake
    Nori + furikake
    • nori in thirds
    • whole sheets
    • furikake
    Step 12
  7. Glaze
    Glazesoy · sesame oilStep 14

Prep order — what happens when, and what overlaps

h:mm
0:000:150:300:451:001:151:301:452:00
Wash, soak, cook rice 1 h
1 h
Salt and broil the salmon 20 min
20 min
Okaka, tuna-mayo, umeboshi 8 min
Loud fillings 6 min
Rice cools a little, covered 5 min
Shape (hand or mold) 25 min
25 min
Bakudan 10 min
Nori, furikake 4 min
Grill + glaze (yaki) 15 min
15 min
Pan / stoveBowl / counterBoardHands-off

The bakudan eggs need a few hours to overnight in the marinade — start them the day before if you can. Keep the rice and the shaped onigiri covered with a damp towel so they don’t dry out.

Step by step

  1. Rice

  2. Cook the rice

    1Cook the rice

    per your rice cooker~1 h incl. soaking

    For this step

    • Japanese short-grain rice450 g
    • Water (rice)600 ml (2½ cups)
    • Wash the rice, then soak it 20–30 minutes in the water.
    • Cook it (rice cooker or pot): 450 g raw makes about 990 g cooked — enough for 9 hand-shaped onigiri of ~110 g.
    • Plain rice — no vinegar, no sugar. The salt goes on your hands.
  3. Fillings

  4. Peel the cooled eggs, then into a zip bag with the marinade, air pressed out.
    Peel the cooled eggs, then into a zip bag with the marinade, air pressed out.

    2Marinate the bakudan eggs (ahead)

    15 min + a few h

    For this step

    • Eggs4
    • Soy sauce (egg marinade)3 tbsp
    • Sake3 tbsp
    • Mirin2 tbsp
    • Sugar1 tbsp
    • Boil the eggs 7–8 minutes from the fridge, then straight into cold water and peel. Firmer than the 6-minute ramen egg, so they hold up to being pressed in rice.
    • Boil the soy sauce, sake, mirin and sugar for a minute and let it cool.
    • Eggs and marinade into a zip bag, fridge for a few hours to overnight. Save the marinade — it seasons the bakudan rice.
    Marinate the bakudan eggs (ahead)
    Should look like this
  5. Okaka: moisten the bonito flakes with soy — damp, not drenched.
    Okaka: moisten the bonito flakes with soy — damp, not drenched.

    3Classic fillings

    ~25 min

    For this step

    • Salmon fillet1–2 fillets
    • Kosher salt (salmon)to sprinkle both sides
    • Katsuobushi (bonito flakes)1 packet (3–5 g)
    • Soy sauce (okaka)1 tbsp
    • Canned tuna, drained1 can (140 g
    • Japanese mayo (Kewpie)2 tbsp
    • Soy sauce (tuna-mayo)½ tbsp
    • Umeboshi (pickled plums)2
    • While the rice cooks:
      • Salted salmon: salt both sides, broil or bake at 218 °C for 10–20 minutes until well done and flaky, then flake it
      • Okaka: katsuobushi moistened (not drenched) with the soy sauce
      • Tuna-mayo: drained tuna + mayo + soy sauce
      • Umeboshi: pits out, flesh on a plate
    Classic fillings
    Should look like this
  6. Loud fillings

    4Loud fillings

    ~6 min

    For this step

    • Sriracha (spicy tuna-mayo)1–2 tsp
    • Karaage, leftover3–4 pieces
    • Kimchi, chopped and squeezed~60 g
    • Cheese (mozzarella or cheddar), small cubes~40 g
    • Same 1–2 tsp per onigiri:
      • Spicy tuna-mayo: half the tuna-mayo with sriracha stirred in (the roll’s spicy mayo works too)
      • Karaage: leftover karaage, cut into small pieces
      • Kimchi + cheese: chopped kimchi, squeezed dry, with a few cheese cubes
  7. Shape by hand

  8. Wet both palms, then dip 2–3 fingers in kosher salt…
    Wet both palms, then dip 2–3 fingers in kosher salt…
    …and rub the salt over both palms.
    …and rub the salt over both palms.

    5Wet and salt your hands

    ~5 min

    For this step

    • Kosher salt (for your hands)a little for each onigiri
    • Let the rice cool just until you can hold it — it must still be warm to stick.
    • Wet both palms with a little water.
    • Dip 2–3 fingers in kosher salt and rub it over both palms (table salt: half as much).
    Wet and salt your hands
    Should look like this
  9. About 50 g of warm rice on your left palm; press a small well into the middle.
    About 50 g of warm rice on your left palm; press a small well into the middle.
    1–2 tsp of filling in the well, then cover with more rice.
    1–2 tsp of filling in the well, then cover with more rice.

    6Rice, filling, close

    1 min each
    • Scoop ~50 g warm rice onto your LEFT palm — the left hand always stays underneath.
    • Press a small well in the middle and put in 1–2 tsp of one filling.
    • Cover with another ~50 g of rice and press it gently round the filling into a ball.
    Rice, filling, close
    Should look like this
  10. Right hand on top, fingers together and bent like a roof; left hand underneath in a “C”, pressing the sides.
    Right hand on top, fingers together and bent like a roof; left hand underneath in a “C”, pressing the sides.
    Press lightly, then roll the corner you just made towards you — a third of a turn — and press again.
    Press lightly, then roll the corner you just made towards you — a third of a turn — and press again.

    7Press the triangle

    ~1 min each
    • RIGHT hand on top, fingers together and bent into a roof — it makes the corner.
    • LEFT hand underneath in a “C” — fingers and heel gently flatten the two sides.
    • Press lightly, then roll the corner you just made towards you — a third of a turn.
    • Three corners, then 2–3 more rounds. Lay it on each face and press once to flatten.
    • Firm enough to hold together, but airy inside — don’t squeeze.
    Press the triangle
    Should look like this
  11. Rice and filling on plastic wrap in a bowl; gather and twist it shut, then press the triangle.
    Rice and filling on plastic wrap in a bowl; gather and twist it shut, then press the triangle.

    8Or: through plastic wrap

    ~1 min each
    • Line a small bowl with plastic wrap and sprinkle in a little salt.
    • Rice in, a well, the filling, more rice on top, a little more salt.
    • Gather and twist the wrap shut, then press the same triangle through it. Good for lunchboxes — nobody’s hands touch the rice.
    Or: through plastic wrap
    Should look like this
  12. Shape with a mold

  13. Fill the wet mold halfway, pushing the rice into the corners.
    Fill the wet mold halfway, pushing the rice into the corners.
    Filling in the middle, then rice to the brim.
    Filling in the middle, then rice to the brim.

    9Fill the mold

    ~1 min each
    • Dip the mold and its lid in water, shake off the excess, and sprinkle salt inside.
    • Fill it halfway with warm rice, pushing it into the corners.
    • A spoonful of filling in the middle, then rice to the brim and a little salt on top.
    Fill the mold
    Should look like this
  14. Lid on and press down firmly — stop when you feel resistance.
    Lid on and press down firmly — stop when you feel resistance.
    Flip it over and push the button to pop the onigiri out.
    Flip it over and push the button to pop the onigiri out.

    10Press and push out

    ~30 s each
    • Lid on and push down firmly — you should feel a slight resistance. No resistance? Add a little rice.
    • Lid off, flip the mold over the tray and push the button to pop the onigiri out.
    • Wet your fingers before touching it. A mold makes smaller, denser onigiri (~75 g each, 13 from the pot); a lighter push keeps them fluffier.
    Press and push out
    Should look like this
  15. Bakudan

  16. About 150 g of seasoned rice in your palm, a whole marinated egg in the middle.
    About 150 g of seasoned rice in your palm, a whole marinated egg in the middle.
    Cover it, shape a round ball, then wrap it all over in a whole sheet of nori.
    Cover it, shape a round ball, then wrap it all over in a whole sheet of nori.

    11Bakudan — the bomb

    ~2 min each

    For this step

    • Nori3 sheets
    • Take the eggs out of the marinade and stir ¼ cup (60 ml) of it into ~600 g of the warm rice.
    • ~150 g of that rice in your left palm, a well in the middle, one whole egg in it.
    • Cover with more rice and shape it round, the egg in the centre.
    • Wrap it all over in a whole nori sheet — the black ball is the bomb.
    Bakudan — the bomb
    Should look like this
  17. Finish

  18. Wrap a third of a nori sheet round the bottom just before eating — the nori stays crisp.
    Wrap a third of a nori sheet round the bottom just before eating — the nori stays crisp.
    Or coat the faces in furikake with damp fingers.
    Or coat the faces in furikake with damp fingers.

    12Nori, furikake, a dab on top

    ~4 min

    For this step

    • Furikaketo coat (optional)
    • Wrap a third of a nori sheet round the bottom of each onigiri — right before eating for crisp nori, or now for soft nori that sticks.
    • Or skip the nori: coat the three faces in furikake with wet fingers.
    • A little of the filling on the tip tells you what’s inside. Eat warm or at room temperature, within about 6 hours.
    Nori, furikake, a dab on top
    Should look like this
  19. Yaki onigiri

  20. Turn each one only when its side is crisp, with two spatulas.
    Turn each one only when its side is crisp, with two spatulas.

    13Yaki onigiri: grill

    medium-low~10 min
    • Press plain onigiri a bit firmer than usual so they don’t break in the pan.
    • Parchment in a frying pan, onigiri on it, medium-low heat.
    • Leave each side until crisp and lightly browned before turning (two spatulas) — handling them too early breaks them.
    Yaki onigiri: grill
    Should look like this
  21. Low heat: brush on the soy glaze, turn it onto the pan, brush the other side.
    Low heat: brush on the soy glaze, turn it onto the pan, brush the other side.

    14Yaki onigiri: glaze

    low~3 min

    For this step

    • Soy sauce (glaze)1 tbsp
    • Toasted sesame oil1 tsp
    • Heat to low. Brush one side with the soy sauce and sesame oil, turn it onto the pan, brush the other.
    • A minute more per side — the glaze burns fast.
    Yaki onigiri: glaze
    Should look like this

Based on: Just One Cookbook — Onigiri (Japanese rice balls) · Just One Cookbook — Yaki onigiri (grilled rice balls) · Japanese Cooking 101 — Ajitama onigiri (ramen egg rice balls) · Hiroko’s Recipes — Bakudan onigiri, the nori-wrapped “bomb”